Saturday, July 17, 2010

Two white Burda blouses

For the first one, I used #107 from Burda Magazine 7/2005. This is a pattern for a princess seamed blouse with vee neck, simple collar and puffed sleeves.

I traced the size 38 and adjusted the shoulder seams for my sloping shoulders. The fabric is a self stripe cotton fabric.

The original pattern includes a waistband, which I did not want, so I extended by the amount the waistband would have lengthened it by (that is, 5cm). I also changed the back piece into two so that it would also be princess seamed. I found a similar pattern with princess seams on the back and traced the new line - pretty easy.
I changed the sleeves as well. The Burda one has a slit in the sleeves and you finish it with ties made from bias binding. I wanted to add a cuff. I did not calculate the cuff width correctly, so I ended up with a narrow cuff. It still looks fine though.

I will probably use this pattern again, but I have a few others that I want to try first. There is a couple in Burda 5/2010 that I am keen to make up and I am currently drafting up some anthropolgie blouse knockoffs as well (using a Burda shirt as a base!)

Next up is #107 from Burda 6/2008. I love love love this pattern and it comes in a dress variation, which I plan to sew sometime in the future. Again, I traced the 38 and adjusted the shoulder seam. I used a white cotton lurex fabric which was sometimes a nightmare to sew (funnily it was fine when I used some in DD's coat, but the lurex kept catching, grrr).
The only variation to the pattern was the shirring. The original is a elastic casing sewn on the outside, but I thought it would be easier to gather with shirring elastic (and it was very easy).
I love the sleeves - pleats at the hem for a slightly puffy sleeve.

I can't wait to try the dress version of this.

Thursday, July 01, 2010

Fun pants

The other night I was going out to a family catch up and I wore a pair of grey pants that I had made. Combined with a button up shirt and a blue jumper, I was feeling a little granny-sih. I had taken my new jacket with me, but it ended up being warm enough without it on.

Anyway, I was thinking that I needed more fun winter stuff. Bright colours that enhance my mood, not dull grey which leaves me feeling a little down. So enter the fun pants:
Don't you agree that they are cheerful. It makes you want to have fun. Yee haw

More work pants for me, an essay on buying fabrics online and some fitting issues

This is another version of the straight legged, fly front Burda pants, with slanted pockets. This time I used a wool blend from Fabric Warehouse Sydney. I have been doing a lot of online fabric shopping of late. It can be the only way to access some quality fabrics without travelling too far. The only problem is having to rely on the descriptions to be accurate, and being willling to work with something that is not exactly what you envisioned.

Take this wool blend fabric. I have been looking for a black wool fabric that is not too exxy for a while. I was hoping to stumble across a black wool crepe. The first time I purchased some (also from FWS) I ended up with some very lush but heavier weight than I wanted fabric. It is going to be a jacket in time, but I needed black pants. While I did not manage to win the auction, I was given a second chance (woo hoo). And while the fabric is fabulous, again it is not exactly what I wanted. Actually, when I first recieved it, I thought it was navy. After comparing it to some navy and black thread, it is not navy, but I don't think it is quite black either. A very dark navy maybe.

Anyway, I am pretty happy with the results. I have some whiskers happening here - I did not clip under the fly, so maybe that has contributed. When I look at the pictures, I am thinking maybe the straight legs are not the best choice for me after all. Or maybe it is okay in a casual fabric, but not a dressier fabric. I am halfway through sewing a red version, but my next pair might be the wider leg version again.
Okay, fitting now. Most of my fitting issues I can live with. They are not uncomfortable so that is why I have not tried too hard to address it. Yesterday I was researching how to fix the pooling of fabric that happens in my lower back in tops.

It looks a little bit like I have swayback issues, but I don't have a swayback. Through reading, I have found people have similar issues when they have a small waist and large bottom. That sounds like me. I took some pictures of the different alterations* I tried. (*only pinned out).

First I pinned out a diagonal wedge, as that is how the back looked like it was pooling to me. More is pinned out at centre back and it tapers out at the side seam. It did get rid of the wrinkles at the back pretty well, but I was unsure if I did the right thing because I did not find any alterations done like this online.

Above I have pinned out a wedge going down the centre back. I could still see wrinkles pointing up and out with this, but again I have only pinned it so it is not really a true indication.

Above is the traditional sway back tuck. It worked pretty well too from the back, but not from a side view. Actually, none of these look any good from the side and they were affecting the front as well.
I had a look at some of the dresses that I had made earlier and realised I did not have any pooling problems with them. They had darts in the back. So I tried pinning out some darts. Yes, they are in the wrong placce.

While it doesn't look brilliant in the photo, it was the only method than looked decent from the side view.
So maybe for now I will choose shirts and jackets with princess seams or back waist darts or add shirring there until I figure out the best solution.